Understanding Roller Adjustment on a Knitting Machine
So the fabric naturally comes down and is passed between these three rollers. If for any reason you found that the fabric was skewing to the right and the left, it could be, there's a pressure change between these two rollers, but should not be. So if it's going that way, maybe this roller is too tight, they should be put in equally. Then the roll is brought down here and is put around this metal bar, and there's a small hook on the side. We can pull it out and, oh, actually we're on. Yeah, here we go. I can take out the bar and then once we cut the roll, we'll cut it. We pull out enough to cut it. So then we can still wrap it around the bar again. Yeah, it's wrapped around. It's put into the slot and you have to pull this out. And then we have to turn the handle on the bottom. The tension of the pulling down is now set. So there are three main four main positions right now you are in C. It can only be released with this. And sometimes you, so these are the four main, the bigger groups, I guess you can adjust. And then this is fine-tuning the individual group. If you're in B, then you have 10 positions in B. If you're in C, you have 10 positions in C. And what
Does that adjust the Tension for Knitted Fabric?
Exactly! The amount of tension pulling down on the fabric. This can turn faster. Which pulls more the yarn. And how often do you tweak that? You only tweak that is if you want to, it's too loose here. You've changed the, it will be sitting now for this acrylic. If you want to make it looser again, you would pull more.
How to Fine-Tune Width and Finish?
You would make it tighter. So this way it does not allow the stitch to go up. It allows the stitch to go, excuse me, not allow the stitch to go wide. It will go down, but then once it is released, it will go wide again. So it just gives, you can adjust the width from here. But is it an actual finished width? No, you cannot measure it while it's on the machine because it's under tension. No, what I mean is if you adjust that and you pull it more, it's going to, it will adjust the finish width. Yeah. Yeah. So it's going to come smaller, smaller or wider? Well, I mean, it depends which direction. Put it tighter. It's going to come smaller, but this has to be in the opposition. And why would you tweak that over that or that over that? It's a different yarn.
Balancing Tension for Different Yarns
Oh, like first, second, third in that order. Mostly everything can be done here. So you just leave that at the bottom. Yeah. It's really as if you're changing a different yarn and then you're out of balance. So you have to go more than, you're usually working in an inch play with this. But if you're changing the yarn and it's way too light or way too narrow, then you have to play with both. It's just you're changing your zones. And again, this is, there's a hand how if it's too tight or too big. Well, right now just cranked it. I cranked it. When it starts to run, it'll loosen up a little bit. You just don't want it too loose. You want to make sure that it's pulling. We can, and again, it's going to say the door is open
Machine Operation and Tension Monitoring
Until you reset. Stop. And then, so why don't you feel it now? It's quite tight. Just bounce your hand on the top. And go the door, release it. It has to click. You have to hear the click. So remember when I said go by hand first too? It's still thick over here. But getting better. Always in the habit of whenever you do something with the machine, just touch to see, make sure you're pulling right now you want to pull, touch that to make sure it's tight. You want to check it to make sure your belt is tight. And then when you're running the machine check to make sure that the adjustment you made isn't too loose or too tight. Because if it's too loose, if you have that spinning and feeding the yarn in too fast, you're going to get what they call drop stitches. So you'll see on the fabric like little stitches that are dropped off. What it is is because it's feeding too fast, it doesn't have a chance to knit and it just rolls right off the needle. So that's some things like raising the dial. If you raise it up too much, you'll be missing the needle. So you do everything slowly. And my suggestion, whenever you raise the dial, even if you want to raise it like a half, raise it a little bit and then move the machine. Why? Because what it does is it'll create the new yawn patterns and then it'll be equal. And then you could do it a little bit more. But if you'd crank it up to one full turn, the yawn is being stretched like hell because it's already created a stitch. And then you could break the yard because halfway into.
Importance of Slow Adjustments for Knitting Machine
Slowly 8 1, 4, 8, 3, 2, 2. That's your number or his? That's yours. Always do everything slow. Don't try to do something drastically because it's not a good thing. Because as you're working, you'll see the fabric. If it starts to pile up, that means you've adjusted maybe the tension going down there, but it's pulling too much. After you make a full turn, you feel it. But give it, like whenever you adjust down there, give it a couple of turns to adjust itself. And then you can feel it. But always slowly, slowly.